Travel off-piste

Albania

Steaming hot. Unmatchable beauty. Skip the Riviera — it has been swallowed by beach clubs. The north is why you are here.

Where

Tirana

1 night

One night. Cheap cocktails, genuinely good nightlife.

Shkodër

gateway

Your last proper base before the mountains. Quirky, small, one hour is enough.

Fierzë

cash only

Mountain transit hub. Cash-only port shop. Börek before the boat.

Lake Koman

2.5 hrs

Two and a half hours through limestone gorges. The journey is the destination.

Lumi i Shalës

boat only

One of the most beautiful rivers in the Albanian Alps. Boat access only.

Valbona

the start

Untouched Albania. The hike to Theth begins here.

Stay

Riverside Komani Lake

lakeside

Built into the mountain. Breakfast with lake views, floating pontoon, transport sorted.

Guesthouse Jezerca

mountain

Spectacular B&B with mountain views. Restaurant open all day. Close to a freezing river.

Eat

Fisi, Shkodër

local favourite

The best grill & traditional Albanian food. Baked lamb, sautéed spinach, tzatziki with pita.

Guesthouse Jezerca Restaurant

farm-to-table

Pre-hike banquet. Roast chicken, lamb or goat, baked potatoes, grilled vegetables.

Lumi i Shalës Beach Shacks

remote

Locally caught river fish, fresh salads, basic BBQ. The best view you will eat in front of.

Best Day Trip

Lumi i Shalës

the one

Turquoise water, dramatic cliffs, the 'Thailand of Albania.' €10 deck chair. Water 7–13°C.

Getting Around

Shkodër to Valbona

8 hrs

Up to eight hours, three modes. Minivan, ferry across Lake Komani, then another minivan. Worth every minute.

Valbona to Theth

the hike

The main event. 15km, 6–8 hours, 1,000m elevation gain. Alpine meadows and rustic cafes.

When to Go

June – September

best window

Peak summer. Minimal rainfall, maximum sunshine. Book accommodation early.

The main event

Valbona to Theth — 15km through the Albanian Alps. Steep climbs, alpine meadows, incredible views. The trail does not disappoint.